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The Gold-breasted waxbill are one of my favorite types of finch.
It is perhaps one of the smallest waxbills commonly available in aviculture, and certainly has one of the brightest colors around, especially when the males are at their peak.
The many shades of gold, orange and yellow remind me of a sunset ending a warm summer’s day.

Though measuring less than 10cm and weighing less than a box of matches, Gold-breasts are certainly not as delicate as you may think, especially when defending their nests.
Gold-breasts are perfect for the beginner to start with, as they are easy to sex (the male being the more colorful of the two), not too fussy in their feeding requirements, usually very willing to reproduce, and are quite hardy (providing the temperature in the enclosure is kept at around 15oc).

To say that Gold-breasts are only for beginners would be totally wrong it is crucial that we have people specializing in breeding them, as this is the only real way of successfully establishing a species which is crying out for domestication.
The fact that the pet trade is for now at least flooded with wild-caught specimens doesn’t help with the breeders out there, but where possible I would always recommend buying off a breeder.

Feeding:
General Feeding:
Like most waxbills I would recommend having two slightly different diets depending on what time of year it is, much like in the wild.
During the non-breeding period, gold-breasts should be fed a basic dry diet of a good quality tropical finch mix with added seed such as chicory, Japanese millet, maw, and wild seed mix; added to this every month or two should be a little eggfood which I tend to feed Dry.
Spray millet can also be offered weekly to give variation and exercise if the sprays are hung up.
No matter what time of the year it is all your waxbills should be given ground charcoal, oyster shell grit and cuttlefish bone; this helps with digesting, as well as strengthening bones and eggs.
Whether you provide vitamin and mineral supplements to your birds is entirely up to you, however I would certainly recommend adding a calcium supplement especially during, and just prior to the breeding season.
I also like to use a general liquid vitamin and mineral supplement to the water daily, but whether it works or not is very much debatable.


Feed At Breeding Time:
During the breeding season your Gold-breasts can be fed a more varied diet, this should be started steadily a month or two before you want them to breed.
Gold-breasts should be provided with small amounts of livefood that should be steadily increased around when the eggs hatch, I prefer to use live buffalo worms as they are very active and don’t grow anything like as fast a meal-worms.
Despite this I also usually provide white-skinned mini-mealworms.
I also add semi-ripe wild seeding grass when I can get it, to give extra nutrients.
I also provide more eggfood, moistened with grated carrot or water.
I also provide insect’s pâté.
Many breeders are going the way the continentals are going and provide frozen livefoods such as buffalo worms and pinkies; I’ve never tried it myself as I wouldn’t be allowed to store the stuff.



Housing:
Gold-breasts tend to retain their flighty instincts even if not wild-caught so they are better off being kept in aviaries or large flight cages.
I prefer to keep my Gold-breasts in an indoor aviary that is attached to a planted and well sheltered outdoor aviary in the warmer months, here they seem to really excel and enjoy themselves.
I have witnessed the male Gold-breast’s flimsy song as early as 5.00am, when I say song it is really a collected of repetitive calls with no tune at all.
I have only observed these calls during the breeding season so I assume its part of their ritual.
The male tends to make these sounds when the female is on the nest.
I would be interested if anyone else has observed this kind of behavior, or any other kind of behaviors.

Gold-breasts can be housed one pair per large cage or aviary, or as part of a communal aviary, I wouldn’t recommend having more than one pair of Gold-breasts in a mixed collection as there can be some fighting during the breeding season, however if the aviary is large enough then more than one pair could be kept together.
Gold-breasts tend not to bother other types of finch to an extent, though like most birds they are not afraid of defending their nests.
Gold-breasts can be quite long lived for their size, having one myself that is at least 6 years old.
Gold-breasts seem to do well on being fed a pretty basic diet which is of great advantage to me because I don’t have to spend a small fortune on ingredients.

Nesting:
Gold-breasts tend to prefer nesting high up, in nesting pockets, rather than boxes; they may even build their own nest out of long grass, animal hair and coco-nut fiber. To prevent any squabbling, put in two nesting receptacles per pair, all at the same height.
The most chicks that I have had successfully fledged in one nest was 6, but 4-5 is more likely. The chicks should be split up from their parents when they are fully independent. This is to prevent any confusion when coloring up as it is very hard to get the smallest of rings to stay on.

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Last updated Saturday, March 31, 2007 6:00 PM
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Cage n Aviary is an in-depth view of my life in bird keeping!